How to choose a pair of good shoes?

"When the shoe fits, the feet are forgotten. "A word is simple, but the phrase" the philosophy of shoes, "the essence of the shoes and feet, only to achieve a comfortable understanding of the feet to get the real freedom, which is the aesthetic value of shoes.

Comfortable shoes is the soul, there is a group of people on foot is meticulous research and attention in the world, and then it made a pair of shoes that this beautiful masterpiece, with a distinguished identity label and the unique qualities of the customized shoes, itself is a symbol of status and taste.

People often say "if you do not have a nice pair of shoes you should, invest one, since it makes the outfit." a good pair of shoes light body clothing. If you think of Gucci, replica Louis Vuitton bags, Prada. please wait a minute, today, we temporarily leave the fashion, only talk about traditional and style.

So, how is it even a pair of good shoes? Start with leather.

Common leather material

Calf type and processing:

Full Grain

The top layer leather, also is the first layer of leather, the best and most rare leather, here is not rare but a rare Dallas, Full Grain usually represent the natural first layer of leather without damage, grain natural texture and rarely uniform, so the Full Grain value is generally high.

Smooth leather

In addition we will often see the smooth skin of smooth leather, which is a Full Grain first layer of leather, but because of some animal skin texture is not obvious or shoemaker for special effects and made a smooth skin.

Top Grain

And what is the first layer of leather we are generally told? Commonly referred to as Corrected Grain, is a Top Grain, in the true head layer cowhide Full Grain slightly below the location, because there are minor flaws and damage can not be selected as Full Grain. So in the process of repairing and polishing is often conceal flaws, after the first layer of leather damage repair, also has a soft, even more durable characteristics, similar to the Full Grain appearance, but the value is less than Full Grain. Famous leather shoes brand Church 's is best at using Top Grain (Corrected Grain) repair and polishing to achieve the texture of Full Grain.

Corium

This is what we usually speak of leather, located in the Full Grain and Top under the bottom of the texture before processing is very thick, slightly less durable and good shoemaker will usually make the cortex Suede Grain. Used for making shoes before Suede from deer, now is the leather production. For those who wear, easy to dirty, easy to absorb water, do not take care, but very young and very soft texture and very comfortable, wearing a crease is not obvious.

Horsehide:

Cordovan: once a goatskin, usually refers to the smooth muscle in them, from the lower layer of croup, also known as Shell, all the phrase Shell Cordovan. Because the process is difficult, this is a very high value of leather shoes, the price is usually 1.5 to 2 times the same level of calfskin, is the best shoe brand and the product processing, mostly red brown and high light, the most representative of the brand is the United States of Alden and Carmina in spain.

Here we do not introduce "rare skin", because there is no trading will not kill!

Sole sewing

Most of the shoes on the market will use two kinds of sole sewing methods: Goodyear and Blake.

Goodyear:

The oldest and most traditional is the most expensive way to make the bottom of the system, this system is usually divided into three steps, the first step is to prepare the inner end of the shoe, the bottom part of the shoe into a vertical rib to facilitate sewing. The second step is to put the Insole (Welt) and the bottom of the shoe in the shoe tree to maintain the stereotypes sewn together, usually made of a piece of leather. Next, the inner and outer sides of the shoe will leave an interlayer, which is usually filled with a crumb or grain. The third part is the outsole (Outsole) with the shoe side (Welt), the bottom (Insole), as well as insoles sewn together. This method of making the shoes to maintain the best durability, but also increase the cost of making shoes. This shoe is the most sought after by traditional shoemaker.

Second methods: Blake

Blake is directly to the bottom of the shoe and the bottom of the direct suture and even adhesion, this kind of shoe is usually less layers and easy to replace in the event of wear. Because the bottom of this system is simple, relatively low cost, easy to produce, used by most non-traditional and fashion footwear brands, the most representative is Tod 's and Berluti.

Sole Material

Leather sole

Beveled Sole: This is a special form of making shoes at the end, because of the difficulty of making, once the most sought after by the British shoemaker, can make people in the scanty shoemaker, so only appear in custom leather shoes. The most representative is the most elegant is "fiddled waist string sole" is in the production of this system at the end of the inner bottom in the sole draw Y line cut and polished on both sides of the sole shape, finally adding outsole, the formation process of the slender waist shaped sole strings. Strings on the soles of the shoes can be a very good support for the foot, on the other hand, in accordance with the classic aesthetic, the strings of the soles of the shoes is the most elegant and gentlemanly.

With the development of technology, fiddled sole still represents the top leather shoes but also began to be widely used. In the UK's John Lobb, George Cleverley high-end custom series Anthony Cleverley, Foster Son custom and custom Edward Green and Gaziano Girling into the shoes can be found in the strings of the soles.

In addition to the British shoemaker there are many foreign craftsmen are also very good interpretation of the shoe strings such as Japan's Yohei Fukuda, Ann Bespokemaker, itarusassoo, Roberto and Ugolini in Italy.

Oak Bark Sole: if you sigh not buy Beveled sole leather shoes, at least we can easily find Oak Bark soles. Oak Bark is the sole a shoe outsole, the soles are more resistant to light more advantages than normal skin.

There are two major manufacturers of Oak Bark Sole, a German Joh Rendenbach Jr Tannery, referred to as JR, you can find the big JR in their letters engraved on the sole, another is Britain's J FJ Baker Co, a low-key manufacturer but also is widely used in the top grade leather shoes the manufacturer, you can usually be in Saint Crispin 's Crockett Jones shoes, handmade series, Oak Bark and Carmina Vass found the sole horse hip shoes.

Rubber sole

Crepe sole: walking more comfortable more soft, not a sound equipment for all kinds of casual shoes, and desert boots, but because once the marching soles, texture rough, high-end shoemaker except Alden using no more

Dainite Studded sole, which is a British patent is also a brand, also belongs to a kind of rubber soles, but you will find a lot of nails or ridge in the soles. The bottom of the rubber is thicker and more protective than the ordinary rubber, and is often used on the Derby shoes.

Dainite Ridgeway sole, also is the Dainite company patent, relative to the Studded sole to be soft

Commando sole, this kind of sole is used in leather boots and the most commonly used on the shoe that wear, wear very resistant, traditional shoemaker

He will also put this shoe on leather shoes such as George Cleverley and Tricker 's

style

Oxford Oxford shoes:

The most orthodox leather shoes, dress collocation special, not too much decoration, shoe lapel and tongue tongue surface separation, completely hidden in the shoelace, referred to as closed lacing, the British gentleman to low-key design, so please try to trousers collocation.

The "trump card" to tell the secret agent title "Oxford no Brogues" to call out ace agents to solve the problem, the first step to the middle of Uncle Colin transformation of small meat is to let him try on Oxford shoes, and inform the light to go and hidden SHIV can kill invisible; continue to the female assistant film finally with little meat SHIV Oxford shoe stamp die hanging open, in the description of this stuff how awesome Oxford shoes.

Derby Derby shoes:

Is a variant of the Oxford, the difference is open lacing -- bootlace Lapel three-dimensional surface, revealing the tongue, this kind of shoes are more all-match and casual, jeans can be collocation.

Brogue Bullock shoes:

More decorative meaning more details of the leather shoes, most do not have Derby shoes and Oxford shoes official, but still can be used in business. Bullock's carving process, not to improve the appearance and fashion shoes. But hollowed out mainly for drainage. Bullock shoes are 500 years ago, when the Scottish people to work, they want to go swamp, shoes need to drain, and then engage in a carved hollowing process. A toe wing and hollow carved, not all so specific, can also be subdivided several:

Full Brogue: the most complex Brogue is like a package, covering the toe toe wing, carved, carved on the shoes, these shoes can also become very fashionable is very young, such as brand Tricker 's Brogue is more fashionable some.

Semi Brogue: semi Bullock shoes, wing decoration of this kind of Brogue will remove the shoes, Bullock shoes than the slightly slightly some simple business.

Quarter Brogue: like the name of the 1/4 Bullock shoes, remove the tip of the carved decoration, more simple, in the Bullock shoe business, usually Closed Lacing, very close to the Oxford shoes.

Long wingtip Brogue: long lines Bullock shoes, long lines refers to the wing will throughout the shoe body, usually in a straight line to the heel, visually stretched shoes.

Loafer happy shoes:

You can understand the lazy shoes, is very simple, to give people a very comfortable feeling, the most representative is Penny Loafer, in order to facilitate college students portable coin design, now retains the design of this kind of classic, this kind of shoes I suggest in the purchase to choose the appropriate opening, unless it comes or not heel injury.

Moccasin moccasin:

Is a lazy shoes, but different from the loafer, first invented just for indoor wearing leather uppers, decorative pendants.

Monk Strap Monck shoes:

Also known as monk shoes, can be understood as the high-end version of the dress shoes, Velcro version. The whole is divided into two kinds, one is the single chain monk, only one button, very elegant very traditional but also very all-match Monk.

The second is the Double Monk, the most common monk, very formal dress shoes, so it is not recommended with jeans, unless it is suede leather Monck shoes.

Slipper: slippers

Oh no, no slippers nor Rabbit plush slippers, I refer to the traditional British home wearing shoes, usually in order to facilitate the opening is larger, and the material is also equipped with a lot of velvet, embroidery, Slipper will also add winter cotton. Suitable for wearing at home or at red carpet dress collocation dinner, want to wear Velvet Slipper daily challenge collocation fine, but not recommended.

Traditional leather shoes

To the traditional gentleman:

John Lobb William Monk Shoes

5560 CNY

George Cleverley Leather Monk-Strap Brogue-Detailed Shoes

4184 CNY (from Mr Porter)

Carmina Shoemaker Cordovan (horse) Derby

5189 CNY

To the eccentric gentleman:

J.M. Weston Derby

3944 CNY from Mr Porter

Saint Crispin's 508HA Derby

11032 CNY

To the modern gentleman:

ALDEN TASSEL Color 8 Shell Cordovan LOAFER

4841 CNY

Edward Green Leather Derby

8819 CNY

Gaziano Girling Chestnut Hatch Rothschild Grain

5810 CNY

Crockett and Vincent tassel in mink calf Jones loafer suede

3964 CNY

To the pursuit of personality:

Berluti Leather Dress Shoe, Red, Slip-On

13834 CNY

Maison Corthay De Vin Lie Calfskin

12104 CNY

Stefano Bemer Detailed Dress Naxos Antique Shoe Oxford Blue

9683 CNY

For young people:

TRICKER'S ILKLEY LEATHER LACE-UP COUNTRY SHOES

4316 CNY

Paraboot Black Leather Shoes

2234 CNY