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An three "new" image of a gentleman
We analyzed the image of "three new gentlemen" from three streets in Italy, London and Japan. They were also suits, but different regions showed different features. Refer to
Peacock boys from Italy
In the general sense of the masses, because of too delicate make-up, Italy men known as peacock boy. The Italian style suit to wide shoulder pads and fit waist, emphasize the inverted triangle of the masculine image.
In fact, Italy is divided into many kinds of suits tailored, but because of the different regions and between regions of different climate, mainly divided into Rome, Milan, Florence three areas of southern style, more emphasis on color and printing, the northern region is more emphasis on fabric and cut the whole powder, green, or a navy suit is not surprising, for Italians, bold color is a man symbol of self-confidence, but they will use black or white shirts to convergence. In the shoes, the Italian favorite is le fu shoes, roll up the pants side, showing ankle or colored socks, casual and fashionable taste.
Finally said in accessories, accessories for the Italians not less is a pocket towel, even the most simple shaped folding, can have remarkable effect for the suit form.
An English gentleman
The modern British manufacturing suit, followed by other countries in the world of men played different versions, and in the whole of Asia, Japan is the most strong suit in place for culture, retain the essence in the U.K. and Italy, also joined some tailoring of the innovation, Liyingwaihe, let her become a suit a language.
Although Japanese suits are imported, the Japanese suit has the advantage of size, and it fits perfectly with the Asian figure. And because the proportion of Japan wearing a suit is basically 8 of the work situation, 1 formal occasions, leisure for 1 into, so the Japanese suit in wear more to set the West based, but also use simple collocation and color matching.
The British gentleman about Britain's suit, scenes of the classic screen image will naturally appear vividly in my mind, agent James Bond, or Sherlock Holmes are giving me crazy. We summed up your English gentleman's suit to make you as charming as they are.
The British clothing industry from the army, which is why British manufacturing suits are straight, shoulder pads are thin, the shoulder line nature, armhole and lifting, provides enough space for the arm, in addition, the UK also suit and the horse, so the British suit bottom like a slit design, convenient in order to facilitate the ride. There is an interesting thing, due to the British low-key personality, suit British icon is hidden in the pocket, in the eyes of the people, the sign on the outside is only Italians and Americans will do.
In shoes, the British people love Oxford shoes, when they want to wear casual, they will match a pair of carved Oxford shoes, some Ivy flavor. The accessories, in addition to the British pocket towel, will reach the integrity of collocation brooch with integral collocation.
Japanese office workers
The "new" road of traditional suit brand
In the just concluded Florence Pitti Uomo's show, we see a change in a business culture exhibition dedicated to suit to the young transformation does, W Anderson, Off invited J White in Pitti Uomo during the show.
Pitti Uomo this move, whether it proves that this style of suit, and even some routines of men's products, in the younger wave of the impact of the steady Pyramid has begun to shake? Let's see how the fashion brands that make up the show are known for their suits.
New faces emerge
When it comes to the transformation of suit brand younger, have to say is Ermenegildo from Italy Zegna, as early as in the street style is not so popular at the beginning of the spring 2014, in Zegna group, Stefano Pilati Ermenegildo Zegna designer in the face of popular suit gentleman image, then put forward a concept more interesting, can make a suit a more modern "split suit (Broken Suit)" the traditional suit image scattered, leading a new wave of suit mix. From then on, the global image of Ermenegildo Zegna began to change step by step.
Today, Ermenegildo Zegna will helm Z Zegna eight years later, the Berluti Sartori Alessandro under the lead, and under its leadership in the spring and summer of 2017 to launch a new global image project "epiphany moment."". International Chanticleer star Robert Deroni (Robert De Niro) and Hollywood star MacDoll Lombardi (McCaul Lombardi) portrait photographed, and film director and designer to share their views and opinions, in retrospect, to explore the future of the moment.
"Epiphany moment" is the significance of Ermenegildo Zegna will be out of another suit younger road -- compared to other successful people, men of the new era style also has the taste, but this is not the most important, important is his leadership, inspiring others I also dare to sum up the past and explore the unknown. So we can bring to the Ermenegildo Zegna Alessandro Sartori in the 2017 winter Men series saw baseball cap, sport shoes, and a strong shoulder profile and smooth cut lines, creating the young and elegant fashion image.
Youth, too, focuses on the past
2010 autumn and winter series, can be said to be Cerruti 1881 towards the dynamic fashion brand milepost, not only invited international famous French architect and designer Christian Biecher as its flagship store in the new look, let the store more modern, but also inject more fashion elements in the clothing, creating a city grade and style for any time in the.
Show such a couple of seasons, until 2015 spring and summer series, Cerruti 1881 in a suit of young, staged a qualitative leap, like in the warm water after a period of time, reached a critical point, then quickly go to boiling. This season we saw a black suit in a printed shirt with Palm Springs holiday wind, also found that there is no gap between serious suit shape and sandals, we saw the possibilities of suits, sleeveless, loose, slim. At the end of the same year, Cerruti 1881 became the thirty-first Elite World Elite Model Contest world finals official partners from around the world model faces in Shenzhen wearing the 2015 spring and summer series promo shoot and catwalk, laid the foundation in the eyes of young people in the "new" image. However, there seems to be a curse, Cerruti 1881 at the end of 2015 from Gieves Hawkes hired Jason Basmajian, the Gieves Hawkes success lay new creative direction of the brand is the chief creative officer of Cerruti 1881 from the youth camp pulled out, leading the brand focus in the past 50 years clothing works, although the new the material, shape and interpretation of the classic, but not with a younger relationship. Changes in the Ermenegildo, Zegna, and Cerruti 1881 to younger transition, and most brands that want to make their suits younger have all gone through.
Youth is a trend, no matter how young the suit is, the suit still carries that unique sense of ceremony, carries on the setting of identity, and functions for the segmentation of urban civilization. Suits can be younger, consumer groups can also be younger, but the constant is "fine", this "fine" is the elite, boutique, exquisite. This is the first element of the law of the new gentleman.
Designers will be able to imagine your color into the suit color card, like a canvas painted on the seven light artists, for this winter adds a touch of artistic temperament.
T new gentleman
Get rid of the traditional sense to suit and known brands, many fashion brands still in the suit has a good performance, and they mentioned the brand compared with a similar characteristic -- "more casual, less formal, so it is more and more young. In the 2017 autumn winter show, we summed up the following four points on the suit, so as to see the "new gentleman" rule.
Shoulders should be wider, the better
The traditional suit brand emphasizes "tailor made", but the wide shoulder suit, which prevailed in the 2017 winter and autumn, completely breaks this rule. Of course, a wide shoulder suit doesn't mean you can buy an oversized one at random. It has its own tailoring data. The suit shoulder size, in its hundred years of development history, ECG curve like a fluctuated, Vitoria at the end of the era of "Lounge Suit", high lapels, narrow shoulders the image of a man of decent symbol at the time; during the Second World War in 30s, the suit presented a "Bigger is Better", the broad shoulders is the best of men of self value; and then in 60s, Pope David Bowie wind, with a narrow shoulder waist bell shape suit collocation to conquer the world, but by 80s the "Power Suit" wide shoulder replacement; then with the popular T platform bully boy the image of the Hedi Slimane replica Dior bags uk Homme led a narrow shoulder version of the suit again swept the world.
At present, led by Balenciaga, a large number of designers will be Russian cultural inspiration alignment in 80s, wide shoulders and suit back to the line of sight of people, which is different from the "Power Suit" is exaggerated shoulders at the same time they made more slim design, is no longer a simple straight version, wide shoulder tough image the instant adds a little tenderness.
Break the suit's limits
When it comes to suit the occasion, we probably will remember the high-rise office buildings, and toast each other dinner party. 2017, autumn and winter, designers strive for us to shape a new image of the suit, suits loaded more new people of the moment of functional appeal, began to break the restrictions of the occasion, out of the office, toward the natural. Relying on scientific and technological progress, suit fabrics are more like sexual selection, looks classic and traditional suit in the use of sports fabric, be dynamic; collocation level, thanks to the suit and white shoes, let more and more brands in the suit dress efforts to remove old the briefcase and leather shoes, the designer will also have backpacks, sports shoes, baseball cap stuffed suit, create a level of rich "new" image of a gentleman.
In the Prada show, corduroy fabrics used in suits, multi pocket design, then the collocation of a beret, reminiscent of the Vitoria period, the suit is certainly an option when hunting men dress; replica Dior bags uk Homme canvas shoes, satchel to showpeople velvet suit casual side.
The suit is still preferred party office and the red carpet, but this winter, you can try to wear a suit on the street, a Free Style, if you like, you can wear it on your adventure.
Art of color
Although fashion is a piece of art about tailoring, it is also a color art. 2017 autumn and winter, the suit was not confined to stay calm blue, stuffy dark grey or black seriously, it has more beautiful color, your wardrobe. Large areas of red and orange, like this year's spring and summer popular vegetation green, let 2017 autumn and winter show full of vitality, to 2017 autumn and winter bring hope light. The suit is no exception, replica Dior online uk Homme, Givenchy by Riccardo, Tisci Versace, or have red or orange suit style; dark green with Calvin wave spots and stripes appear in the Emporio Armani velvet suit; Lanvin will pale yellow suit collocation with laces to show movement...... Designers will be able to imagine your color into the suit color card, like a canvas painted on the seven light artists, for this winter adds a touch of artistic temperament.
A childish element
In a sense, a suit represents a watershed in age. When you put on your first suit, it represents the end of your childhood. So boys always dream of growing up quickly when they are young. They can wear their father's suits and have a decent image. However, T this season and even the suits are full of childlike taste, patch, badge, or those unconventional tailored suit is no longer synonymous with decent, it is more of a childlike attitude make people easy to close. Plaid suit Valentino back filled with letters, with a baseball cap, and gouache the same colors, collar ribbon into a bow, the Vivienne Westwood is pondering through to the end; in the suit with the bottom asymmetric cut and replaced the collar badge in the decoration on the suit, let people can only sigh old urchin is really the old urchin; Thom Browne for non conventional application buttons can not help but attract people's praise, full of wit and humour at the same time, but also contains some thinking for the future form of clothing......
The fashion industry is a designer who advocates trends, consumers follow trends, and then this trend affects the designer's closed loop. And who doesn't want to be younger? The consumer thinks so, and so does the designer.
Custom "new" gentleman
At present many fashion brands have launched a suit of semi custom or advanced customization services, Asian and European people figure is different, so sometimes senior clothing can not meet all needs of Asians, this time you should find them.
cheap replica Dior handbags UK Homme
cheap replica Dior handbags UKswear offers semi custom service in the world's specialty stores where each customer can tailor his suit according to his own needs. For the first time, customers can choose the fabric of the suit. After the brand will tailor for customers tailored to craftsmen ingenuity, with exquisite technique and technology, experienced in the pilot and modified, tailored the most fitting suit, and then use the silk embroidered CD logo on behalf of Dior, to show the success of their own men's self-confidence.
Canali
Canali's suit is the pride of the brand, a suit requires nearly 300 processes, at the same time, Canali also introduced the Su Misura exclusive tailor-made service. Experienced in Canali and master tailor deeply contact, according to the views of the master tailor to enter into the fitting part. Here it is worth noting that, with no additional master tailor is charged separately. After fitting, master tailor tailored for customers, and upload the data to the headquarters, the next step of the work by plainclothes carpenter. In the fabric of choice, Su Misura customized suit service has more than 500 kinds of advanced fabric optional, and quarterly updates. Autumn and winter in the choice of fabric variety, from the comfort and is waterproof and elastic wool fabrics to pure cashmere and an alpaca and mohair brother szlama, blended fabrics, with exquisite texture and warm touch.
Su Misura in order to ensure the customization of customer service, especially in buttons, pockets, and clothing, and many other places set a variety of combinations, customers can choose according to their preferences. The Su Misura custom suit usually takes four to six weeks, starting with the first time you start communicating with a tailor, and it takes about 40 days to get your suit.
Alfred Dunhill
Alfred Dunhill tailor represents the essence of the custom tradition of Saville Row in London (Savile) and integrates it into the personalized service offered to customers. Today's Alfred Dunhill advanced custom clothing is a low-key, elegant temperament of the masters. The modern, highly sophisticated bespoke suit is known as the British Dunhill tailoring, which meets the needs of wearing on different occasions. The same brand and other customized service processes, but not the same as the first step of Alfred Dunhill advanced customization service by appointment, to meet customers in London, New York, Shanghai, Tokyo or Hongkong and master tailor, rather than global everywhere can meet. In addition, the entire cycle of Alfred Dunhill is slightly longer than that of the other, almost three months.
Suit Lab
This is a tailor's studio in Shanghai on the East Jinling Road, a specially tailored young people's suit. Brand founder Chen Yinsen Mike deeply appreciate what Chinese needs of the market and foreign market entry is completely different, is much larger than the small suit game player, so he studied in many of Italy's Custom Stores, according to local conditions, came into being the founder of Suit Lab. To shorten the time limit for a custom suit to the shortest five days, of course, there must be a loss, to Suit Lab price and speed, Mike said he can only give you the most cost-effective suit.
Sartorial
Speaking of Allen Xie, we want to introduce another custom shop, if Aleen Xie is for high-end market, Suit Lab is aimed at the market entry, the Sartorial is aimed at high-end custom groups.
Although there is no Aleen Xie Sartorial that is known, but it is one of the founders of Kieran is a small net full of red, many micro-blog fans of him, every hour and moment not in their circle of friends, micro-blog voice. Compared with the other two stores, he carried out in suits custom business at the same time, because he is a horse lover, so Sartorial, as well as the corresponding equestrian equipment customization or sale, of course, shoes, belts, ties and other accessories can also find custom port in the Sartorial.
Allen Xie
In custom circles, or in fashion and entertainment, the name "Allen Xie" has long been familiar. It is a high-end lifestyle brand founded by Allen Xie in Shanghai in 2010 and is the core product of Bespoke. The male artists who walk through their clothes are too numerous to list, while he always appears in media interviews or in various publicity campaigns. His suit has its own unique characteristics of the two, one is Alan's eye with the traditional Milan into the eye (Eye of Allen), another is Alan from the traditional flat collar reformed collar (Allen Notch) and Alan (Allen Peak) closure collar. The growing custom Empire, the booming business, gave Allen Xie the perfect transition to an ideal business, he said. "Customization was the first thing to do, and now these businesses don't conflict with the ideals.". "
This August, "Luo Bo report" "2017 quality life report" questionnaire officially released! This year is the "Luo Bo report" 10th anniversary, but also "quality life report" 10th anniversary. We review the theme of research over the years, and select the most valuable wealth in society today, "integrity" as the theme of the survey.
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