What's the best handmade shirt in the world?

The main fan said: where is your hand shirt? Dry cargo here up.

(the | beans, authorized business scope issued)

Italy custom trip I visited the Anna Matuozzo, Fiorenzo Auricchio (D 'Avino), Luca Avitabile, Golia, Francesco Merolla in Naples, some of the local reputation of some shirts master. Before beginning to tell their story, as "foreplay", it is necessary to talk about the handmade shirt this thing.

A handmade shirt in the end where it is handmade?

What a handmade shirt what benefits?

No more clothes on hand is not better?

These high frequency issues mentioned, one by one.

A handmade shirt in the end where it is handmade?

Handmade shirts, as the name implies, the process of making shirts in part by hand instead of machine production. It is now recognized that the eight hand handmade shirts include the following steps:

(picture taken before I borrow D Avino shirt, wronged people, who is known as the 25 manual shirt, I only from the part of the picture)

This "eight manual" industry is how to produce the default specification, not open around a brand: Luigi Borrelli.

The brand story begins with Luigi Borrelli's mother, Anna Borrelli, who started his career in 1915, the son of Borrelli, Luigi in 1957.

This biography, help, with the family business model and other home is no different. Today, in Naples, I can still see the family workshop, several relatives together quietly work scene.

In particular, Luigi Borrelli put the booth thing bigger.

Big key, Borrelli Luigi family "one contract system" mode of production into a production line, and the standard manual shirt in some of the steps and standards, which greatly improves the stability of production capacity and production.

"One drawback contract" is that even the weather produced depend on the speed and stability of individual mood, ability (bad weather affects mood...). But one end technology is very comprehensive, it takes a long time training and continuous learning. Finally, the technology is excellent, people to create their own business, but also from the new culture.

Luigi Borrelli's insight that thing to do to be blind, and separation process, each person is responsible only for one step, ensure each procedure in practice after the product is stable. At the same time, it can guarantee that unless a nest, it is difficult for individuals to practice independently, improve the stability of the team.

This alone, Luigi Borrelli name enough in the history of the development of men's clothing in Italy, leaving a pen. Although the status of the Borrelli family in the apparel industry in Italy is far more than this. In Naples, I met more than one tailor told me that his mother, his grandmother used to work in the Luigi Borrelli, to endorse their roots are red seedlings.

It is said that when the founder of Ciro Paone Mr. Kiton wants to be the best shirt in the world, he comes to Sebastiano and asks him how to do it. After the discussion of specific issues, Ciro Paone Sebastiano immediately closed his team, give him absolute freedom, and do not consider the cost of production. Just to make the best shirt in the world. It really meets the Kiton "The best the best + 1" tonality.

By the way, Sebastiano's full name is Sebastiano Borrelli, a member of the Borrelli family.

What exactly is the Luigi eight Borrelli standard? Now no test. But the winner takes all of the times, we have the largest standard that followed down, become the industry standard.

What a handmade shirt what benefits?

What are the benefits of these eight crafts? I divided the eight into three parts:

Enhance the sense of comfort:

1 collar and body splice / shoulder

Two. In order to wrinkle:

2 over shoulder

3 armhole

4 front panel

Three. There's nothing for the eggs

5.

6 buttons

7 knot

8 bottom side seam

We need to know the first thing about the connection between the seat and the body:

Perimeter collar body and is slightly different, collar length, body short, the version is not the same, so the seam (shown in red) are "hard" together.

If you start operating from A, took the seat body and the car together, a blackened car in the end, in the end B will find the end point collar body and the end point is not neat. The experienced teacher meeting a stop, see if the gap between the big need to put the fabric to "pull", but the machine wire gauge is too dense, pull up difficult, resulting in the stitching is not full of arc. The manual from the collar sparse, loose hand control, arc stitching easy to do full and complete.

Manual wire sleeve, skewer is large, loose and elastic, so the size of the sleeve ring has certain elasticity, when the hand of these actions, the sleeve ring will "change" a little bit in the pull, not feel armpit strangled uncomfortable, enhanced comfort.

Don't look so let the seam wrinkle problem, we need to know a bit, why seams will wrinkle?

Let's start with the shoulder:

Look at the sleeve:

The truth is the same, and outside the red fabric will shrink, only the red line of fabric was killed can not move the car line, so this area was always looked at.

As mentioned above, the manual sleeve from the line because the skewer, loose and elastic, by suture bite of the fabric still has some ductility, even shrink is "everyone shrinkage", greatly ease the occurrence of folds.

In addition to the manual cutting line, there is no other way to make these areas do not wrinkle? We look at the domestic well-known enterprises is how to solve this problem.

Eslite is so dry:

This is his home for a free ironing shown repeatedly appeared in Figure two words: strip.

What is the molding?

An adhesive lining, these wrinkles easily where all the hot layer of adhesive lining, the joints become stiff, stiff. This technique is usually accompanied by the appearance of a non ironing shirt fabric. Good performance of Anti Wrinkle fabric itself, these seams are stiff, washing to dry without ironing is not too wrinkled.

You see, people squat there hangchikengchi dry half day work, where a strip of a full solution to the iron. It is a prosperous technology...

Technically, no problem. And where the approach represents a process of mainstream free ironing shirts, even Brooks Brothers can do. However, people always have the aesthetic pursuit of functional requirements. These added panels become stiff, stiff joints, and not with the fabric together bends naturally, wearing this shirt, outside the human body is like a shelf, shelves filled with free ironing fabric, fabric with human activities and move, do not move to the shelf...

I don't mind if the shirt is wrinkled, but I mind the shirt.

Finally, talk about "no egg" part, listen to the name to know that this part of the manual is no practical use, or that the machine is the same effect. Even some of the machine is fixed first, and then add the manual. More manual stack, it will not be much improvement in functionality.

Why do you want to add?

Through a large number of complex function without actual labor Laifu products to a higher value, leading to higher prices.

This point of view, all walks of life to follow. I remember a car with my friends in the introduction of a high price of the car, will add,

"Every screws are made, all the parts are standard parts, are specialized mold production. "

I don't know if the screw machined parts or other standard parts of the speed and driving experience have much impact, but there must be something to make a reasonable explanation for the price, also let a person to pay themselves especially to give others a "you see I am not stupid, understand. The saying.

No more clothes on hand is not better?

Back to the Naples shirt, in addition to the default eight manual, each can provide simple or high version for you to choose. A few more steps to add dozens of Europe, the price tag, is quite clear.

There have been colleagues and suppliers with me to explore the possibility of domestic production of handmade shirt, forget a long time found a problem: the cost to do so a shirt to pay labor costs than labour and materials from Italy to buy a more expensive...

Where is the problem? I don't think I'm used to it.

On the fine degree of the manual, the domestic craft than Italy had no bad, but not the age of the master who is a shirt apprenticeship apprenticeship how to do, no one taught. This is the case with the environment, resulting in the production of handmade shirts no corresponding market price. The method of determining the price becomes a man hour calculation mode. Do not skilled, of course, do slow, long hours, of course, expensive. You do not say, but also ugly.

For example, can not distinguish structural sutures and decorative seams which, on the collar and lock eyes in the same line; or to show the use of exaggeration hand embroidered. Read this kind of work will know, is still in the imitation stage, why do so, do not understand.

Naples these shirts do not come over the tailor, who can talk about who is more clever than anyone else, really, we are almost. Really let me look at the high or who is most willing to pay, not in the amount of manual, but fitting.

Fitting shows the aesthetic expression of the tailor, fitting brings style, fitting is worth.

This is why it seems to me that Anna Matuozzo is the first Naples shirt master, worthy of the highest price Naples shirt.

Before and domestic peer friends talk about handmade shirts, ask me which step is the most necessary manual. I said from the consumer standpoint, must be hand sewn eyelets, hand sewn buttons and shoulder hand rod line. Cutting line must also choose thick line, stick not too fine, the best a little crooked, is a look at the manual. The other hand is hidden inside, no legal person before the show and tinkling se, can not.

"Obsession handmade shirt who can endure wearing uncomfortable, cannot bear to see not cock. "